RV furnaces run the fan directly from the 12 volt system and heating from propane. None of the 120 volt supply is necessary to run an RV furnace. This is great for boon docking and saving on heating costs where RV parks charge extra for electricity, but at best, the efficiency is around 70 percent.
This level of efficiency is not bad, but many installations are challenged with poor RV furnace ducting. In the space of three weeks, I’ve discovered three cases where RV furnace ducting was nearly collapsed, blocking valuable airflow and further limiting heating efficiency.
The two ducts at the top of this RV furnace are not collapsed, but the airflow has to do a sharp U-turn to make it through. The remedy was simple. Some careful use of cable-ties raised the ducting and made the turn more of a 45 degree angle, (better than 170 degrees!), and increased the speed and volume of warmed air reaching the coach.
The bathroom outlet for this RV furnace duct was completely collapsed. Water piping was pressing against the duct. Amazingly, there was still some warming airflow pouring from the register, but efficiency was reduced by a huge proportion. This travel trailer of Santa Rosa, Ca., is over twenty years old and it’s possible that this duct was collapsed since it left the factory.
A simple cable-tie was used to fully open this bathroom RV furnace duct. The entire system is now functioning to it’s full potential thanks to this simple remedy.
Another RV furnace in a 2010 fifth-wheel located in Petaluma, Ca., had it’s underfloor ducting totally collapsed. The furnace had only one duct working properly in the entire coach.
Call me today and set a time to have your RV furnace and ducting inspected today.
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